Joe Stange drinks his way around Jackson Hole.
I couldn’t imagine a better backdrop for kicking off those cowboy/ski/motorcycle/hiking boots and relaxing with a cold one than Jackson Hole. Just to be clear: Jackson is the Wyoming town, and Jackson Hole is the valley. Harsh winters kept year-round residents away from here until trappers arrived in the late 1800s. Then, dude ranchers and skiers came in the 20th century, and so did Grand Teton National Park, established in 1929. In a sense, Jackson Hole still operates like a giant dude ranch, as well-heeled urbanites descend in droves for a taste of the West. There’s a touch of glamour, too, and not just from the film-worthy scenery; A-listers like Harrison Ford, Sandra Bullock and Tiger Woods have retreats here, and, lucky for them, locals are tight-lipped, allowing all visitors their privacy.
Though millions of tourists pass through every year, Jackson is still pretty small (population 10,000 or so) and can be explored quite easily on foot. Inevitably, that foot (ideally with the help of a second foot, both shod in the aforementioned boots of choice) must carry you to Snake River Brewing. It’s an unpretentious brewpub with two floors, shiny kit and plenty of patio tables, should weather permit. Grub ranges from typical pub fare to locavore-minded pan-seared Idaho trout and buffalo bratwurst made with Zonker Stout. Standards are high in this tucked-away brewhouse; even among the rotating beers, it’s tough to find one that hasn’t won multiple national awards. The one I kept coming back to was A.K. Session, a mild just under 4% ABV. Another favorite, and a natural with the pub’s pulled pork sandwich, was a cask-drawn Smoked Porter.
A few blocks from Snake River, you’ll stumble across a yellow motorcycle rickshaw in front of Thai Me Up. Don’t let the racy name throw you off: This is a food-and-beer treasure, nothing else. Homebrewer-chef Jeremy Tofte started the restaurant as a laid-back Thai joint with old movie posters and a nanobrewery in the back, churning out brawny hop-bombs that pair well with spicier dishes. Tofte’s philosophy: “If we are going to charge a brother $5, then it better get to the point on the first sip, and you should not have to get more than a couple.” Success among local die-hards has sent this nano inching toward micro; Tofte recently added a three-barrel kit and brewmaster Kirk McHale, previously of Pizza Port in Carlsbad, Calif. It was McHale who first helped Tofte develop his 2 x 4 Quadrupel Pale Ale, a brightly aromatic bruiser that effortlessly washes down a fiery plate of larb gai—chicken sautéed with chilies, onions and fresh lime juice.
Free Jackson Hole tip: When you see a bunch of cars pulled over to the side of the road, it means “wildlife sighting.” If you want to see a moose, pull over.
Thai Me Up
Fine, but what if you want to eat the wildlife? Loads of wood paneling and a big stuffed buffalo greet you at Gun Barrel—and the menu’s a gamey carnivore fantasy with buffalo, deer and elk, rainbow trout and several beef options. I sprang for a perfectly tender buffalo prime rib which was thick and tender and thusly busted my previously held buffalo steak stereotype. Local beers include a few from Snake River, with the Zonker Stout a friendly companion to the mesquite-grilled, slow-roasted meats. The bar offers homegrown cocktails and plenty of whiskies and whiskeys, including some single-barrel American stuff like Basil Hayden’s and Booker Noe’s.
Speaking of fire water, I’m told that it’s the beverage of cowboys. I wouldn’t know. My boots of choice are the sort worn for hiking, and the hiking one finds in Grand Teton National Park is world-class. More than 250 miles of trails vary widely in scenery and difficulty. The path around Jenny Lake and up into Cascade Canyon is popular for good reason: It provides scenery that stuns without too much challenge along the way.
All this talk of Tetons and I haven’t yet mentioned Grand Teton Brewing, in Victor, Idaho, just on the other side of yonder mountains. About a half-hour’s drive from Jackson, this production brewery tends a bar under the same roof that’s reassuringly industrial and buttoned-down, with the day’s selections scrawled on chalkboards. Look for the famed Bitch Creek ESB; sniffing a fresh glass of the stuff is like sticking your nose inside a bag of fresh hops. Grand Teton beers are widely available across the region, but if you miss the brewery tap, then you miss seeing, in person, the first modern growler. Then known as Otto Brothers, the brewery introduced America’s favorite gallon-sized beer jug in 1989. Go and pay your respects.
Also in Victor, you’ll find another beer-food knockout, Wildlife Brewing. Nanobrewery and pizzeria, together at last. Avoid my mistake and check the opening hours… it’s closed for lunch Monday to Wednesday. When it’s open, opt for the Flamethrower Pizza, with spicy tomato sauce, pepperoni, hot Italian sausage, jalapeños and Frank’s Red Hot, with two popular (and mouth-extinguishing) brews, Mighty Bison Brown Ale and High IPA.
Wildlife Brewing
On the road between Jackson and Victor, look for the five-meter fish looming over a parking lot. That’ll mark the spot of Nora’s Fish Creek Inn, the Wilson, Wyo., diner that specializes in pancake breakfasts and fresh trout—not necessarily on the same plate. Also on the menu are a handful of local craft beers. They say Nora’s is a favorite stop of former VP Dick Cheney, who has some Wyoming roots. Don’t let that intimidate you.
On the way back to my cabin I found a bit of cowboy kitsch: a stop sign that said WHOA instead of STOP. As in, whoa. Slow down there, pard. Not so fast. WHOA can also mean wow. Which is what you say more often than not when you look up at those mountains. •
WHERE TO STOP:
265 S. Millward St., Jackson, Wyo.
75 E. Pearl Ave., Jackson, Wyo.
The Gun Barrel Steak and Game House
862 W. Broadway, Jackson, Wyo.
Nora’s Fish Creek Inn
5600 W. Highway 22, Wilson, Wyo., 307.733.8288
430 Old Jackson Hwy., Victor, Idaho
145 S. Main St., Victor, Idaho