FRANCONIA, GERMANY
Importers are an enviable lot, trekking the far corners of the earth to unearth new brew. Though they’ve logged thousands of frequent flier miles, these consummate beer travelers can still be awed: Here, they tell us about their most cherished destinations.
DAN SHELTON Shelton Brothers, Belchertown, Mass.
Imports beers from 17 countries, including brews from Baird Brewery in Japan, Cantillon in Belgium and Kulmbacher in Germany.
“I’ve been to 150 of the roughly 300 little breweries around Franconia, Germany. They all make lager, and they’re all different! They purport to be the same style, but they vary from pale gold to dark brown; some have more hops, some less; and the yeast gives them a lot of character. It’s endlessly fascinating. There are rolling hills and farms, but also beautiful woodlands and classic little gingerbread villages. The whole area is approximately the same size as Maryland, and is extremely
THE POECHENELLEKELDER
bike-friendly. In 2006, I spent the whole summer there riding my bike from brewery to brewery, and drinking lagers in the quiet local pubs.” IF YOU GO: Visit in June, and escape the sun by sipping lagers in the region’s limestone caves; known as kellers, these hobbit-style lairs were carved to keep beer cold in summer, and still serve as mini-taprooms with draft brews and seating.
LANNY HOFF Artisanal Imports, Austin, Texas
Imports beer from 11 beer makers—four of them Belgian—around the globe, including the Bosteels and Urthel breweries.
“My favorite pub in Belgium is the Poechenellekelder [translation: “the puppet cellar”] in Brussels; I’ve had lots of great experiences there. It’s very quintessentially Belgian, with marionettes on the wall, giant candle sculptures and an excellent beer list. Oh, and life-saving spaghetti! But I think that Americans traveling to Belgium get overly obsessed with going to the ‘right’ places. Hit a few of the notable beer haunts, certainly, but it’s also great to just plop down on the patio of a random café and order a beer. Pick one with a good view, and you can soak in the sights and try your best to disappear into the fabric of everyday Belgian life.” IF YOU GO: The Poechenellekelder sits across from Brussels’ most famous landmark, the Mannekin Pis; snap a souvenir pic with the “pissing boy” (and his ever-changing wardrobe) before you leave.
ALAN SHAPIRO SBS Imports, Seattle
TRAQUAIR HOUSE
Imports beer and cider from four European breweries, including the U.K.’s Batemans and Aspall Suffolk Cyder.
“One place that stands out is my first visit to Traquair House in Scotland. The brief history is that the Stuart family was not part of the Church of England—they were Catholic—and they had secret quarters in this huge house for their priest. There was an escape through a reversible bookcase like you see in the movies, so that if they were attacked, the priest could get out. The brewery is in the basement, right where those stairs exited. Today, the family lives in a small portion of it; when I was there, Catherine Maxwell Stuart was playing a harpsichord from the 1800s in the drawing room.” IF YOU GO: Go in spring or summer and attempt the Traquair Maze, a half-acre beech tree labyrinth behind the main house—best done before you hit the brewery shop.
