Features
Go now: Hospoda

Located in Manhattan’s Bohemian National Hall (also the Czech consulate), Hospoda is an enchanting little spot dishing up small plates of contemporary Czech cuisine, like rabbit, smoked beef tongue and roasted squab. Though primarily a restaurant, Hospoda actually translates to “beer house” in Czech, and the man behind the brew here is none other than 2010’s International Master Bartender of the Year, Prague native Lukas Svoboda. The beer’s impeccably fresh, typically less than three weeks old and always served at 44.5 degrees. The catch? The only beer on tap is Pilsner Urquell, but it’s served in four distinct ways: sweet, slice, crème and neat. Devised at a sibling location in Prague, the sweet (mliko) is nearly entirely foam: Drink it quickly, for a sweet, mouth-filling experience. Slice (snyt) features a substantial “four-finger foam” that has a smooth, refreshing mouthfeel, but a bit more bite. The creme (hladinka) is the normal pour with a standard head, while the neat (cochtan) features no head at all, allowing the Saaz hop bitterness to shine. Experience all four pours in 0.3 Liter mugs for $19. –Mike Riccetti

Hospoda: 321 E. 73rd St., New York City, hospodanyc.com

Published January/February 2012
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